Mallory Frequently Asked Questions

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Q) I was looking for a distributor and I noticed some were labeled "Ready to Run" or "Self Contained" while others said they had to be run with a capacitive discharge ignition system. What’s the difference?

A) A self contained distributor is just that, it is ready to hook up to a coil and run an engine. Distributors that are labeled for use with a CD ignition cannot run an engine without the CD ignition because they do not have the ability to fire (or drive) a coil. These are cheaper and easier to produce in some ways. The biggest down side is that should you want or need to run the engine without a CD, you can’t.




Q) I put a new high output ignition system on my car and now the engine misses. I took it back to the speed shop and he gave me another one and it does the same thing. What’s wrong?

A) The problem isn’t the ignition box, it is somewhere else and that somewhere is often the spark plug wires. Here’s what is happening. Your new high output ignition delivers several times more current to the spark plugs and the wires probably cannot contain it and they are leaking energy or shorting out to ground. Resistor plugs can contribute to the problem, just like corroded terminals or bad fitting boots on the wires.

It’s like that hose you use to wash your car. When the nozzle is open and there is very little pressure actually in the hose, the nozzle only leaks a little in your hand from the connection between the hose and the nozzle. When you close the nozzle and the hose builds up pressure, it really sprays out from that bad connection and soaks you but good.




Q) I just put a new cap on my distributor and the car started to miss. I took off the cap and the carbon tip inside the cap is chipped. Why, was it a bad cap?

A) The cap was probably just fine. What went wrong was how you installed it. It is very important that you lower the cap straight down onto the distributor. Otherwise, the tip of the rotor catches the edge of the carbon and it chips.




Q) I just put a new cap on my distributor and the car started to miss. I took off the cap and the carbon tip inside the cap is chipped. Why, was it a bad cap?

A) The cap was probably just fine. What went wrong was how you installed it. It is very important that you lower the cap straight down onto the distributor. Otherwise, the tip of the rotor catches the edge of the carbon and it chips.




Q) Why do the catalogs always say what coil to run with a particular ignition, especially with a CD ignition? Are they just trying to sell more parts?

A) Especially in the case of a CD ignition box, the coil is really an integral part of the ignition system. The box and coil are designed to work as a team. If things are compatible, you can not only lose performance, you can actually generate excess heat either in the coil our ignition box.




Q) Is it important how I mount my new coil?

A) Yes, for a couple or reasons. First of all, some coils are filled with special oil that keeps them cool inside. They are designed to have the little air space they have at the top and away from the heat generating windings. Mounting them the wrong way can cause them to over heat internally.

Also, here’s a helpful hint. Try to mount your coil in such a manner that the coil wire will only need to be 18" or less. Also, try to keep it away from as much heat as possible and where there is some airflow.




Q) I just put a new ignition box on and something doesn’t feel quite right. I wired in my new one just like to other brand I had.

A) Whenever you add a new ignition box, you need to re-check the ignition timing. It often will change a couple of degrees, even if you are just going from one box to another one.




Q) I noticed some distributors have 2 wires to hook up and others have 3. Why the difference?

A) Provided that they are both complete, self contained distributors (question #1), some distributors use a separate ground wire while others count on grounding through the housing. A separate ground wire is cheap insurance and highly recommended. Most distributors have a gasket between the housing and the engine, plus the housing has o-rings. That leaves only the distributor/oil pump drive, which is coated in oil and the distributor clamp to supply the ground.




Q) It is a pain to disconnect my battery every time I add a new ignition component. Why should I have to go through the work? I’m careful.

A) Especially when dealing with an ignition system, you have to follow the instructions. The reason is simple. If you power up a portion of the system, but not all of it, the system starts building up energy it needs dump somewhere. This can damage the components by dumping your high output coil through components designed strictly to handle low voltage. So resist the urge, wire up everything like the instructions call for, then hook up the power.




Q) I just put a new digital ignition system on my car and it seems like it takes a split second longer to start. What gives?

A) If you’re one of those people that stuff the key and twists to right away to start, you may and may not be able to notice a slight delay. When a digital system is first energized, it runs a quick electronic check of itself, hence a fraction of a second delay.




Q) I keep burning out the same ignition part over and over again. What’s wrong?

A) What’s wrong is probably something else that is causing the part to get damaged. With the high reliability of today’s electronics, you should contact the manufacturer by phone or visit their web site when you first have a failure and find out what can be causing the problem. Most companies have trouble shooting guides that can help you find the problem, or at least give you a checking procedure to follow. If that doesn’t do it, then give them a call. You’ll save everyones time by having already checked the most common causes. After all, if you take 2 beers out of the fridge and they are hot, is it defective beer or could you have another problem?




Q) Do I need to use a Ballast Resistor when using the Hyfire Ignition boxes?

A) No, our ignition boxes do not require any use of a ballast resistor.




Q) Do you have a troubleshooting/test procedure available online?

A) Yes, we have a number of test procedures for our fuel pumps, ignition systems and distributors. Please visit our website at www.malloryperformance.com/InstructionSheetsList.aspx




Q) Where can I get a Mallory Performance catalog?

A) Yes, go to www.malloryperformance.com/CatalogsList.aspx or you can fill out the order form www.mr-gasket.com/pdf/CATform.pdf




Q) Do the Comp S/S 32 series distributors require the use of an ignition box?

A) Yes, they are not a stand alone distributor. You need an ignition box in order to use the distributor. Any one of the Hyfire Series CD boxes will be a direct hookup to the Comp S/S 32 series distributor.




Q) What is the difference between the Active Power Filter and the Circuit Guard?

A) The Circuit Guard (#29371) only protects the red wire (12 volts) against voltage spikes and the Active Power Filter (#29351) protects the red wire (12 volts) against voltage spikes and also protects the green wire (negative side to coil) from feed backs and load dumps.




Q) Can I run a smaller size return line then my feed line on my carburetor setup?

A) No, you need run the same size or larger on the return line then the feed line. A smaller return line will create back pressure and cause erratic fuel pressure. Running the same size or larger will not restrict the fuel system and allow for smooth reliable performance.




Q) Can I use a p/n 4309 return style regulator or a p/n 4207 dead head style regulator with my p/n 5250 Comp 250 fuel pump?

A) No, we only offer two regulators for the Comp 250 fuel pump. They are p/n 4200 dead head style and p/n 4300M for a return style regulator.




Q) Can I use a crab style distributor cap on my Unilite distributor?

A) No, but we do offer a service on machining the distributor bowl to allow your Unilite distributor to use a crab style distributor cap. Remember though once this process is done you will not be able to use your standard distributor cap anymore only the crab style cap.




Q) Will your Alloy Steel Distributor Gear work with my hydraulic roller cam?

A) Our alloy steel distributor gears will work with all core material except 8620-9310 steel where our bronze gear will be used. The 8620 steel with iron gear option will work with our alloy steel gears.




Q) Is the advance adjustable in your Unilite Series Distributors?

A) Yes, they can be adjusted from 14 degrees up to 28 degrees using the advance keys.




Q) Do you offer an advance curve kits for my Mallory distributor?

A) Yes we do if you have an YL or YS advance distributor you will need a p/n 29015 curve kit. If you have an YH or YT advance distributor you will need p/n 29014 curve kit.




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